Section Notes


Before reading the following, your attention is drawn to the Disclaimer.

Page 1 Topics



Wearing protective clothing is imperative. Although by UK law only a helmet is required, you would be mad not to wear any further protection. You would be surprised at just how much damage even a 30mph off can cause you, you never know when it may happen. I personally never ride in anything less than full protective clothing; no matter how long or short the journey. I know of several people who have chanced the two miles to the shops in a helmet, jeans and t-shirt; and paid a heavy price when things went wrong.

If you are doing your training and do not have your own kit, your training centre will probably have the required protective clothing for you to borrow.

The following runs through the kit I use, I am not telling you that this is what you should rush out and buy. It's what I am currently using and feel happy with. Your choice of kit is very much down to personal preference and your budget. Motorcycling magazines (such as RiDE and Bike) are a good place to start reading up. They are great for reviewing clothing and catering for all budgets.


Page 2 Topics




Helmet

I'm not going to go into why wearing a helmet is a good idea and how it offers protection. Mainly because, to be blunt, here in Great Britain (and many other countries for that matter) you don't have a choice about whether to wear one or not. It should be pretty self-explanatory anyway. Helmets for road use in Great Britain must conform to British Standard 6658. They are categorised into Type B (a green label), and Type A (a blue label). Type B means that the helmet meets the minimum testing criteria and specifications for a road legal helmet. The second category, Type A, indicates that during testing and evaluation, the helmet exceeded the minimum criteria. Type A helmets can be used on a racetrack too.

Some helmets may bear an ACU silver or gold sticker. The ACU governs motorcycle sport within the UK. Gold and Silver ACU stickers are different from the BSI standards. Generally the standards run at a parallel, with Gold accreditation going to Type A helmets and Silver accreditation going to Type B helmets. Full-face helmets (see left) by far offer the highest level of protection.

I have two helmets, an M. Robert MR-500 and a HJC CS-12. Both are ACU Gold approved. The M. Roberts was fine for my moped, but now I'm on the NC30 I find that wind noise is a problem over 50mph, as is induction noise. The seat-belt type fastening is simple to use and ventilation is reasonable. I find the helmet well padded and fairly comfortable over long periods of use. The main problem I have come across is that the visor has a habit of flipping open when doing lifesaver looks at dual-carriageway speeds. Refreshing, but not helpful.

The HJC CS-12 benefits from superior sound insulation and padding. It also has a breath guard, which helps stop your visor misting up on cold days. It is removable if you don't get on with it. The double D-ring chinstrap fastening is a bit fiddly at first, but you soon get use to it. Ventilation is also better than the M Roberts; the vents are really effective! Comfort is great. The padding is good in all the right places. The helmet is definitely comfortable enough for all day use.

On the subject of noise, it is highly advisable to wear earplugs, especially if you are embarking on a long journey. Road noise, induction noise, other traffic, but most significantly, wind noise all contribute to surprisingly high noise levels. Tests have shown that at 50mph, noise levels are around 85dB. This is the first point in the hearing range where damage to the inner ear may occur if the level is maintained for any period of time. At 120mph (not that any of us ever reach those kind of speeds on the road!), noise levels can reach 115dB. This is about the same as listening to an aircraft from 180metres away, so we are talking serious sound here. Hearing damage is progressive; it builds up. Some early signs are Tinnitus, and a muted feeling after you ride, like when you get water in your ears from the shower. Well-insulated helmets, and visors with good seals can reduce noise by around 5dB, but it isn't really enough. Disposable earplugs are very cheap, (30p to £3) so there isn't much excuse!

Gloves

Protecting your hands is important, not only in an accident but also during everyday riding. Stones flicking up, insect impacts and, in the winter, the freezing slipstream are all hazards. I have a pair of Weise Race No.2's that I wear during the winter, and a pair of Alpinestar GP Plus's for Summer use. Generally these are the two types of glove, Summer and Winter, although there are quite a few hybrids around. It is important that gloves fit properly and are comfortable. Exposed areas such as the knuckles, palms and wrist-bones, which are all vulnerable in crashes, should have extra protection. Lots of gloves now have built-in armour, like carbon-weave knuckle guards. Extra concealed stitching is good; it means that the glove won't come to pieces if the first layer is ground through. Adjustable wrist straps are vital; they are what keep the gloves on. Be sure that they adjust to give a tight enough fit.

The Weise Race No.2's are very warm in the winter; I rarely have to wear thermal under-gloves. They are also totally waterproof. They don't have any ‘hard' armour, but are thickly padded over the knuckles. There isn't any protection over the wrist bones though. For such warm winter gloves they aren't particularly bulky, so don't hinder using any of the switchgear. The wrist is adjustable in two places, across the wrist and at the cuff. The suede palms give excellent grip. Unfortunately they are just too warm for the summer.

My second pair of gloves are the Alpinestar GP Plus's. I splashed out a bit with these. They have hard carbon-weave armour over the knuckles, wrist bone protection, internal Kevlar linings, external stitching (for comfort) and reflective logos to help with visibility. The third and forth finger are bridged, to protect against finger roll. This feels weird at first and takes a bit of getting use to. Like the Race No. 2's, they are adjustable at the cuff and the wrist. The gloves take a while to break in, but feel fantastic when they have. For summer use they are extremely cool. Apparently, Noriyuki Haga uses them too! I have to say I feel a lot better protected wearing these than I do the Weise Race No.2's.


Boots

There's no two ways about it; riding in casual footwear is a bad idea. Steel toe-capped work boots are also ill-advised. It has been known in an accident for the toe of the boot to flex upwards and the steel plate slice into toes. Motorcycle boots are designed to give maximum protection to vulnerable areas such as shins, toes and anklebones. Rigid heels give support and protection if your foot became trapped under the bike. For the same reason, soles are designed to flex lengthways, but be rigid across. Soles are also designed to be shock absorbing. Armour to the front and rear of the boot helps protect especially vulnerable shin and anklebones. Reinforcement across the top of the toes protects the boot from being damaged by constant wear against the gear lever.

I wear Oxtar TCS's. The armour on them is CE approved and doesn't hamper walking; they are quite comfortable once the hard soles have been broken in. I could happily wander about in them all day. The armour down the spine of the boot squeaks. Everyone says this, but I actually managed to silence mine by spraying the sliding parts with Yoshimoto ‘No-Rusto-Prene'! The zips are three-quarter length, with the top of each boot being secured by a Velcro flap. The adjustability of the flap means that the boots can be worn over leathers or inside fabric trousers. The boots themselves are not designed to be waterproof. The Air Tech lining is comfortable except on extremely hot days, when I have noticed that ventilation isn't great. I don't think the little vents work at all! Overall I love them; they feel great, look great and inspire lots of confidence. (Continued next page)