Regulator/Rectifier

Like its 750cc brothers, the regulator/rectifier on NC30's can fail. However, the problem is not as common as many people make out. The actual problem does not usually lie with the unit itself. Road vibrations can cause electrical arcing within the block connector. Eventually, arc-damage builds up, effectively ‘blocking' the flow of current. This in time damages the regulator/rectifier, the battery and potentially the alternator. If you find that after a twenty or so mile ride your bike will not restart easily, this is the first thing to check. If the rectifier and or block connector looks overheated then it will probably need replacing. It is quite likely that the battery will too. A pattern replacement regulator/rectifier is around £70. Checking the function of the rectifier/regulator unit regularly with a multimeter across the battery terminals can catch the problem early before it causes damage to anything else.

The regulator/rectifier is found on the left-hand side of the subframe. It looks like a silver metal box with cooling fins. You can see it by removing the pillion seat, but you will have to remove the Seat Cowl to inspect it and carry out the checks. Take a look at the block connector, you will need to ease back the rubber sheath. Look for signs of overheating (black/brown stains on casing or wiring). Check across the battery terminals with a multimeter. When the engine is at 5000rpm, you should get a reading between 13.5v and 15.5v. If it is above this then there is likely to be a problem. It is advisable you get it checked out straight away.

The unit gets hot during normal operation anyway, this is how it rids itself of excess energy, so don't take the unit being very hot to touch as a sign that something is wrong. If you ever remove the regulator unit itself from the frame, use thermally conductive paste on the points of contact with the subframe when you replace it. The paste is the same stuff that is used on computer heat sinks. It helps conduct heat away from the regulator and disperses it in the frame.

Sparkplugs, Valves, & Tyres

Sparkplugs on NC30's are notoriously hard to reach, the plugs on cylinders two and four, the front cylinders, are the most difficult, as access to them is obstructed by the upper radiator. The plugs on cylinders one and three are easier to reach with the Seat Cowls off. The sparkplugs themselves are expensive to replace, as much as £50 per set, as they are small, specialised items. Take care when fitting as they can snap if cross-threaded or overtightened. Generally they last well.

The Valve Clearance and shim adjustment at the 16,000mile service is a job best left to a dealer. Expect to pay about two hours labour costs for this alone. In the long run, it is cheaper than replacing burnt-out valves.

Consumables

Tyres, (on a full power bike) should last approximately 4000-5000miles for the rear and 8000-9000miles for the front, depending on your choice of tyre (see Buying an NC30 for suggestions) and how you ride. Fuel economy is 35-45mpg for an unrestricted bike, and is again very dependant on how you ride!

Other Servicing Notes

As mentioned above, parts in general do tend to be on the expensive side, expect to pay around £200 for the seat fairings, £200 for the front fairing, £400 for engine cowlings and an extra £40 for the screen, this is what I have been advised, so DON'T DROP IT! Fortunately, this is not an avenue I have had to explore, and have no intention of either! The NC30 Club has an excellent parts ordering service, I have used it myself and it is well recommended. Riders of Yeovil import 400's and will get parts. Most dealers will be happy to fit the part for you. Overall reliability of the NC30 is excellent.  The engine, even if not particularly well maintained, should run to well over 40,000 miles before any real work is required. A well maintained engine should live on well past that.  Gear driven cams add reliability and produce a unique whining noise (this is normal by the way).  An important part of maintaining the engine is not to neglect oil changes.

General Cleaning

Fairing panels can be cleaned using warm soapy water. I would strongly advise against using a pressure washer to clean the bike. Pressure washing blasts grease out of bearings, can damage the radiators and water in the carburettors is always a bad thing!

Furniture polish brings up fairing panels to a nice shine. The waxy coating it leaves behind also helps to prevent some small scratches. I'd recommend regularly removing dead insects, especially in the Summer; their acidic little body's attack paint work. Having white wheels means lots of cleaning to keep them looking good. The back wheel does get spattered with chain lubricant, as does the swingarm. A little degreaser sprayed on a cloth removes this (check the degreaser is suitable for use on painted surfaces first though). For the screen, mirrors and headlamps, I find that ‘Mer' Windscreen Cleaner works very well. On metal parts, I use ‘Autosol' which removes tarnish easily. ‘Brasso' is great for producing a brilliant shine.

It is not uncommon for muck to collect in the switchgear over a long period of time. My brake light switch for the front lever packed up. A genuine Honda replacement set me back £16, a corroded rear brake hose guide another £7 (for a bit of bent coat hanger with a washer stuck to it!) Make no mistake, parts for NC30's are not cheap.